There you are watching TV, tucking in to your beef lasagne
and you find that it may have won the four-thirty at Haydock Park.
Food quality was a major issue back in the nineteenth century and a key factor
in the growth of the co-operative retail movement. Who would have thought that
over a hundred and fifty years later food adulteration would raise its head
again?
The horse meat scandal has exposed all sorts of shady
dealing. It is shocking to discover that shops selling foodstuffs did not know
(or appear to care) what it was and perhaps even worse consumers did not know
or care what they where eating.
The worst feature of this crisis is not the duplicity of
food producers and retailers who are after all only in it for the money. The surprise
is the constant shock at the idea that profit seeking enterprises are only in
it for profit!
When I was small my mum taught me not to put anything in my
mouth if I did not know where it had come from. Yet millions everyday eat food
that is processed to such an extent you need a forensic laboratory to know what
it is. As someone who likes his grub I find this deeply sad.
Good food is one of life’s great pleasures and yet a swathe
of our population has been enslaved by relentless marketing and advertising and
by a growing addiction to salt, sugar and fat, to believe that this stuff is edible. Sadly this is something of a class issue.
Growing health and obesity issues do disproportionately affect the less
affluent that have been conned into believing they can only afford cheap
processed crap. It is ironic that in Britain the rich make a fortune
selling this stuff to the poor whilst they eat like Mediterranean peasants.
It now seems amazing that early council houses where built
with large gardens so that people could offset the rent by growing their own
vegetables. We are a nation that has become alienated from the environment and have
lost all sense of where our food comes from with many seasonal foods available
all year around - all that varies is their number of air miles.
Thankfully there is growing resistance to this
environmentally damaging food economy. Some of it is being lead by a growing
network of new co-operative stores selling organic and ethically sourced
foodstuffs. A classic example since its opening in 1996 is the wonderful
Unicorn grocery in Chorlton, South Manchester.
This multi award winning - Observer Food Monthly’s Best
Independent Shop, Radio 4 Food Programs Best Independent Retailer - store’s
basic offer is affordable, wholesome food with a focus on organic, fair-trade
and local sourcing. As a workers
co-op, owned and managed by the people who work in it they have created a
place they would want to shop in themselves.
Their focus is on basic ingredients for tasty, interesting
and affordable cooking with around seventy lines of organic fruit and veg
at prices that compare well to the supermarket chains.
Unicorn also owns 21 acres of prime growing land, just 14
miles from the shop, tenanted by a co-op of organic growers, improving and
securing the regional veg supply for the future. Packed on site they have a
wide variety of staple
cooking ingredients such as pulses, grains, nuts, dried fruits and spices,
provide the basis for really good value meals.
Put this together with organic beer and wine,
daily fresh organic bread
and an ever-expanding deli
counter and you have a winning combination. They also have a growing selection
of environmentally friendly baby
products, cosmetics and household goods made from natural ingredients.
Unicorn also caters to people seeking dairy free, gluten
free and sugar free products. The shop is full of information about trade and
food issues, and aims to help customers make informed shopping choices.
So does it work financially? Well it has grown from a
turnover of £3,500 to £3.5 million, from 4 members to 50. The worker/members donate
a steady 5% of wage costs to local and international
projects relating to its Principles of Purpose and also contribute to a
tree planting scheme with a carbon
tax in an attempt to offset some of the environmental impact of running the
business.
There may not be room for a Unicorn on every high street but
surely there is a need for one in every small town and every suburb? Unicorn encourages others to have ago
themselves with a self-help guide to opening your own new co-op store on their
website at: www.unicorn-grocery.co.uk. If your town needs better
food and a healthier diet why not have a go and Grow a Grocery?